*Coq au Vin*
Since the inception of my blog just less than a year ago I’ve wanted to post a recipe for Coq au Vin, but I’ve been reluctant to do so. For one, it’s such a classic recipe that there are already countless versions to be found in a number of cookbooks from well established home chefs - why add to an already cluttered playing field of Coq au Vin recipes? Second, given that this recipe is most certainly “tried and tested”, I didn’t want to put out a recipe that seems regurgitated, incomplete, or not up to par with other variations from renowned chefs who have acquired, deservingly, god like statuses. “How could I ever measure up to that?” I wondered. Nevertheless, and perhaps despite my better judgement, I’m going to toss my chicken into the pan (this is supposed to be a pun equivalent to “toss my hat in the ring” but I couldn’t come up with anything better at the moment).
My own version of coq au vin has been derived from three years worth of practice. I know the basic ingredients that go into the dish -chicken, bacon, wine, various aromatics and herbs - it’s been getting the correct measurements that agree with my personal palette. This also brings me to an important realization, I don’t need to have a perfect recipe that suits or accommodates everyones personal tastes. This is what works for me and mine and if you like it, great. Try it out yourself. If not, well, you can probably find a recipe that better suits your own tastes or you can modify it how you’d like. Again, this is what works for me.
In the most classic of versions you’ll find that recipes call for a whole chicken cut into its various parts - breasts, thighs, legs, wings - but I personally feel the breasts get too dry and the meat on the wings is often miniscule and not worth the effort. Thus, in my own rendition I only use thighs and legs. I also don’t like using a whole bottle of wine in the recipe; I think half a bottle is sufficient and even tastes better this way. Feel free to drink what remains in the bottle - Chef’s treat.
Coq au Vin (serves 6)
Ingredients:
8-9 oz thick cut bacon (3 or 4 thick slices), cut into lardons
3 1/2 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs and drumsticks, about 8 - 10 total
Kosher salt
3 large carrots, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cut diagonally into 3-inch chunks
4 large shallots, quartered
4 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 cup cognac or brandy
1 1/2 cups chicken stock (or 1 1/2 cups boiling water with 1 1/2 teaspoons of Better than Bullion)
1/2 bottle of red wine, preferably Pinot Noir (3 1/4 cups)
2 tablespoons tomato paste
Small handful of thyme
2 bay leaves
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 tablespoon oil
3 tablespoons flour
1 pound mushrooms, quartered
Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper
Instructions:
1. Pre-heat oven to 350°F, with a rack in the bottom third of the oven.
2. In a large non-stick skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until the back has rendered its fat and is crispy, around 10 minutes. Remove bacon to bowl lined with paper towels.
3. Thoroughly dry the chicken legs and thighs using paper towels. Working in batches, sprinkle the chicken with a little salt and then brown the chicken over medium heat until the skin is golden brown and crispy all over. Transfer to a plate and continue with the remaining chicken.
4. To the same skillet add the carrots, shallots, garlic and previously cooked bacon. Sprinkle on a bit of salt. Cook for a few minutes until everything is fragrant, deglazing the pan as you stir everything around, making sure to get all the crispy bits that may be on the bottom of the skillet. Transfer all of this, juices and all, to a dutch oven set over medium heat.
6. Add the chicken to the dutch oven with the vegetables and bacon. Pour over everything the cognac. With a match or long lighter, ignite and flambé (the flame with subside when the alcohol has burned off). Pour in the chicken stock and wine, add the tomato paste and then the herbs. Bring to the simmer. Cover tightly with a lid and place in the pre-heated oven. Braise for 30 minutes and remove from the oven when finished.
7. Meanwhile in a non-stick skillet heat the oil and two tablespoons of the butter over medium high heat. When the butter foam begins to dissipate, add the quartered mushrooms and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Sauté for 5 to 6 minutes. Remove to a side dish.
8. Shortly before pulling the chicken out of the oven, combine in a small bowl the flour and butter and smooth into a paste. To the paste add several spoonfuls of the hot liquid, stirring to eliminate all lumps. Pour the mixture into sauce and gently stir. Add the mushrooms to the pot, cover, and cook over medium heat for another 10 minutes. The sauce will thicken as it cooks. Just before serving, taste for salt and pepper. Remove the bay leaves and the thyme stems.
9. Serve with mashed potatoes or buttered noodles. Asparagus or Brussel sprouts are a nice vegetable to go along with the dish as well.
Chou Farci, better known as “stuffed cabbage”
Well, quite some time has passed since I last met you here. Such is life; sometimes you’re up and sometimes you’re down. In good news, spring has finally arrived and the long, cold days of winter are quickly fading into memory. Summer will soon be arriving on our doorsteps to set ablaze that youthful mischief which is aroused with warm weather.
Speaking of warm weather, it’s once again nice enough in the evenings to enjoy dinner outside. This is that rare sweet spot of the year when the temperature is just right and the pesky flying bugs aren’t abundant. Perfect for a delicious evening meal and chilled wine.
Chou Farci/ Stuffed Cabbage (serves 2 -4)
Ingredients:
1 large head of Savoy cabbage
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 yellow onion, diced
2 or 3 carrots, diced
2/3 pound lean ground beef
2/3 pound hot Italian sausage
2 cloves of garlic, sliced
3 sprigs of thyme
2 bay leaves
1 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds
1/2 teaspoon allspice
Kosher salt and pepper, to taste
1/4 cup dry white vermouth or dry white wine (optional, but adds a touch of acidity and sweetness)
3/4 of 15oz can of crushed tomatoes (juices included)
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large egg
1 cup grated Swiss cheese
Instructions:
1. Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees. Bring a pot of salted water to boil. In the mean time, remove the first two outer leaves of the cabbage and toss. Then, remove the tough core at the bottom of the cabbage with a knife. Cutting away from you, cut into the cabbage and around the core, remove. Peel the cabbage layers apart from the bottom (keeps them from ripping), using the knife to detach any leaves which still might be attached to remaining parts of the core. When all leaves have been removed, place them into the boiling water and cook for 6 minutes. Drain and set aside.
2. In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. First cook the onion and carrots until they begin to soften, 5 minutes. Add the ground beef and sausage, along with the garlic, thyme, bay leaves, fennel seeds, and allspice. Season with salt and pepper to taste. As the meat cooks break it up with a spatula until it’s crumbly. Once the meat has browned, add the vermouth or wine and simmer down until it’s nearly all evaporated. Then pour in the crushed tomatoes and simmer for 5 minutes or longer if needed, until the liquid has mostly simmered and been absorbed. Transfer to a bowl and let the meat filling cool.
3. Smear the butter into any dish large enough to hold all the ingredients, such as a deep 9 inch cake pan, or a deep bread or meatloaf pan. Don’t be shy on the butter! Place the largest and prettiest cabbage leaf down first, this is what will display when it’s un-molded. Top with another leaf and arrange the leaves until the base and sides are covered. It’s okay if the leaves extend beyond the pan, you will eventually fold them under the top layer. You won’t use all the leaves, reserve enough to create four or five layers.
4. When the mixture has cooled, discard what remains of the sprigs of thyme and the whole bay leaves. Add the egg and mix well. Scoop some of the mixture into the bottom of the pan, top with some of the cheese, and finish with a layer of cabbage leaves. Repeat this until you have three or four layers. Finish with a layer of cabbage leaves, making sure to tuck the leaves in on all sides.
5. Bake for 40 minutes on the middle rack of the oven. Once finished, unmold by placing a plate or serving platter on top of the baking dish, flip, and remove the mold. Cut into slices and serve right away.
